Any fencing around the individual building site should have a conveniently equipped entrance for people and a gate for the car to enter the territory. At the same time, the design of the gates and the gate must be strong enough to provide, if necessary, protection against the penetration of outsiders. One of the popular materials that meets these requirements is a metal profiled sheet or corrugated board, mounted on a frame made of shaped steel pipe and corner.
Gate constructions
According to the method of opening, gates from a profile pipe and corrugated board can be sliding or swinging. A single sheet of sliding gates is shifted to the side along the line of the installed fence area. Moving this design can be done manually, but more often a mechanical drive with an electric motor is installed for this.
The main advantage of sliding gates is that their opening does not require free space from the side of the street or courtyard. However, with the large dimensions of the canvas, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure or install special elements so that the side farthest from the bearing support does not sink down under its own weight.
Swing constructions
This is a simpler gate made of corrugated board with a wicket, consisting of 1 or 2 rotary canvases, each of which is installed on a separate support pillar. A gate for people to pass can be mounted separately or located on the surface of one of the wings.
Thanks to a simple device, swing gates from corrugated board can be made by yourself and assemble them yourself.
Sizing gates
The accepted width of the swing structures depends on the overall dimensions of the car that will pass through them. It is necessary to add 1200-1500 mm to this size in order to simplify the possibility of entry with a turn from the side of the street, or 800-900 mm if there is a direct access section of the road in front of the gate.
In addition, it is necessary to take into account the width of the profiled sheet, which will reduce the number of scraps and metal waste in the manufacture of gates to a minimum.
The overall dimensions of most models of cars do not exceed 2000 mm, on average it is 1700-1900 mm. Based on this, we can say that the optimal width of the swing gates is in the range of 4000-4500 mm taking into account the overall dimensions of the supporting posts. Convenient for people to pass, the width of the gate is usually taken to be 1200 mm.
The height of the swing gates depends on the length of the profiled sheet, which is 2000 mm as standard. When adding to this value the gap between the wings and the ground we get a height in the range of 2150-2250 mm. An elevated position above the surface of the earth is necessary for the possibility of opening in the presence of ice or snow in winter.
What to make a gate, gate and poles
The calculation of the required amount of materials for gates with a wicket from corrugated board can be done only on the basis of the drawing of the gate, on which the following data are applied:
- the width of the opening between the supporting posts;
- dimensions of swing wings;
- the configuration of the supporting frame of the valves with the indication of the material and the section of its constituent elements;
- the number, location and dimensions of the support posts;
- installation location and dimensions of the gate;
- mounting places of welded hinges;
- information about the lock and latches.
If necessary, structural reinforcing elements should be applied to the drawing to increase resistance to wind loads. The kit includes:
- profiled sheathing sheet;
- steel pipes 60x60 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm for installation as a pillar support column;
- profile pipes 40x40 mm or 60x20 mm for assembling the supporting frame of the valves and gates;
- self-tapping screws with a hex head to secure the profiled sheet;
- a metal sheet or strip for the manufacture of scarves and mortgages;
- welded mesh for reinforcing masonry pillars;
- hinges, latch locks and lower latches;
- primer, paint, solvent;
- welding electrodes.
Strengthening the frame structure is carried out using a profile pipe 20x20 mm or equal-angle corner of the same size. For additional decoration of the gate, forged decorative elements can be purchased that will be welded along the upper edge of the wings.
Marking and earthworks
In order to mark out the placement of support columns, it is necessary to determine the location of the gate. With its separate installation of posts there will be 3, and with the sash built into the canvas, 2 supports are enough.
If a fence around the site has already been installed, pull the cord between its extreme posts. The position of the thread will indicate the position line of the fence from the corrugated board with a gate and a gate, and it will also allow you to mark the installation sites of the posts in accordance with the prepared drawing.
The supporting basis of the brick pillar is a profile pipe 60x60 mm.
For its vertical installation and subsequent concreting, you need to drill 2 or 3 holes in the ground. The diameter of the drill is 120-140 mm. Digging holes with a shovel will lead to an increase in their size and excessive consumption of concrete. The depth of the pit should be at least 1/3 of the height of the installed rack.
Materials for the manufacture of support pillars
After earthworks are completed, you can proceed with the installation of poles for hanging the gate leaves and gates. They can be made from:
- steel round or profile pipes with a section from 150 mm;
- asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of at least 200 mm;
- finished reinforced concrete products of the corresponding form;
- natural stone;
- building blocks;
- red clay or silicate brick.
Doors made of brick are considered the most reliable, beautiful and affordable construction for gates from corrugated board. Their masonry is reinforced with a metal stand in the form of a profile pipe 60x60 mm and a welded reinforcing mesh.
The order of the construction of pillars of brick
Clean the profile pipe of the required length from traces of rust, if any, and paint in two layers. Thereafter:
- pour a layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 100 mm and a layer of sand of 50 mm into the pit, tamp the bulk material well;
- prepare concrete from cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of components 1: 3: 4 (5);
- assemble the formwork;
- install the metal stand vertically and concreting it.
The rack can be fixed strictly vertically with the help of their metal bar spacers or fittings.
The upper plane of the concrete pouring should be 50-100 mm above the ground level. To do this, formwork is installed, the edges of which should exceed the dimensions of the future column by 50-70 mm. After hardening concrete:
- cover the surface with waterproofing material or bitumen mastic;
- put a layer of mortar and masonry the first row of 4 bricks;
- After 4-5 rows, weld a metal bar with a embedded plate to the vertical metal stand to secure the rotary loops.
The laying of subsequent rows is made with obligatory dressing (overlapping) of the lower vertical seams. Every 3-4 rows, lay a reinforcing mesh that can be worn through the top of a steel vertical stand. The thickness of the seams is 8-10 mm.
Perform continuous monitoring of the vertical masonry using a building level or plumb. On the surface of each column from the side of the sash should be installed 2-3 embedded plates. Their number depends on the size and total weight of the structure.
Assembly of sash and gate frames
On a flat surface, draw or mark a rectangle corresponding to the size of the gate leaf. To check the accuracy of right angles, measure both diagonals of the rectangle. They must be exactly the same. Weld the outer frame from the profile pipe of the main section, cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
The frame is reinforced by installing transverse and diagonal jumpers from the profile pipe of a smaller section or corner.
In the event that the gate for the fence from the profiled sheet is located on the plane of the leaf, you need to weld two vertical posts from the main section pipe and one horizontal one at the height corresponding to the entrance dimensions inside the frame. The welded rack, on which the loops for hanging the gates will be located, is best made from two vertical pipes welded together.
Strip all welds to a flat surface with a grinder. Remove rust from the metal surface, if any, traces of dirt, oil and paint it 2 times with paint for outdoor use.
Loop fastening
Installation of gate leaves and gates is carried out on large garage hinges. Initially, all the hinges are electrically welded to the embedded plates on the support posts. A weld is made along the entire length of the mounting edge.
When installing, pay attention that the central part of the hinge does not fall into the gap between the post and the sash. Before attaching the gate to the hinges, do not forget about a sufficient amount of lubricant, which should work in a wide temperature range and not be washed out by water.
Hardware Installation
A complete set of swing gate accessories may include such devices as:
- locks with which you can reliably close the gate and the gate on either side;
- lower latches necessary to keep the lower part of the wings in a stationary position and partially relieve stresses from the lock;
- latch or bolt for locking the gate from the inside;
- mechanical drive and remote control automation;
- lighting devices, alarm and outdoor surveillance camera.
The installed lock can be padlock, patch or mortise. Mortise locks are installed fully or partially inside the profile pipe from which the sash frame is welded. Sometimes, overhead metal boxes are used for such an installation.
Fixing a profiled sheet
In simple designs, corrugated board is mounted on the outside of the swing gates. A more complex and heavy, but beautiful and neat option provides for lining on both sides. The overlay of sheets is made with the obligatory overlapping of neighboring paintings on one common wave.
Fastening is carried out using special roofing screws for a hexagonal bit with a washer and rubber gasket. In this case, the fastening of the fasteners is carried out not only in the frame around the perimeter, but also in all horizontal and diagonal jumpers.
The recommended step between fixing hardware is 80-100 mm. Instead of screws, you can use rivets with the ability to install on one side with a special tool. This will cost more, but to avoid corrosion of the fasteners and the possible formation of rusty streaks over time.
Nuances of the device built-in gates
A gate located on one of the gate leaves is less convenient in everyday use than a separate one, but it allows:
- reduce the cost of installing swing gates;
- reduce the size of the required opening in the fence;
- refuse to install the third support pillar.
The gate opening can be located from the edge near the support pillar, in the center of the sash plane or closer to the middle of the gate.
It is possible to produce gate leaves of different sizes, when the smaller of them will be used as a gate. At a cost this option is the most low-budget. However, it is necessary to take into account the increase in the weight load on the support column, on which the larger sash will be fixed.
When installing the gate on the plane of the gate leaf, the presence of lower latches in the set of accessories is mandatory.